no start after replacing the injectors 2.3L 4d56t

G

gustycrosswinds

New Member
hello,
diesel 2.3L 4d56t
i tried a search but couldn't find anything yet.
i just had my injectors rebuilt and am having a no start issue after installing them.
in a search of other forums, it seems this is fairly common and just need more cranking.

i attempted to push all the fuel to the IP already and reattached all electrical components after unplugging the IP to do compression tests. the injectors look right and seem to be making a seal with the new washers.
i've got the battery on a charger, in case i wore it down with the compression test.

i am only cranking about 10 seconds at a time, and letting the starter cool down after each attempt.
am i being too shy with my crank time?

thanks all
 
Might be air in the system.
Did you prime/bleed the fuel system?

Bleeding the fuel lines

If you've changed the fuel filter or worked on the injection pump or injectors you'll likely need to bleed the air out of the fuel lines. If you changed the fuel filter: Wrap a rag around the fuel filter- this will be messy. Loosen the bleed port bolt (10mm), press on the primer pump until fuel...
delicaforum.com delicaforum.com
 
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i tried to, but perhaps i did not do a good enough job of it. i primed it with the hand pump and with an inline 12v pump.
i am not seeing much come out of the outlet side of the IP (i have clear hoses), should i be seeing that line fill up?
i went through most of these steps but will go through them all again tomorrow. will keep yall updated
 
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Crack the injectors loose where they connect with the metal fuel line and crank the motor over until you see fuel dripping from all 4 injectors. Then tighten. Should bleed all air out of system.
 
as soon as the rain lets up, i will get out there and try to bleed everything again.
i am also looking for a part number for the fuel shut off solenoid, it doesn't come up with a basic search. if anyone has that, i would appreciate that. i can hear it clicking when i give it 12v but i havent pulled it out to see if the plunger is actually moving with 12v.
the engine seems like it catches and tries to fire but won't stay on. seems like it is not getting fuel.

i also noticed that the plunger only gets 11v until the glow plug mechanism finishes its cycle, then it gets the full 12. is this normal?
 
gustycrosswinds said:
as soon as the rain lets up, i will get out there and try to bleed everything again.
i am also looking for a part number for the fuel shut off solenoid, it doesn't come up with a basic search. if anyone has that, i would appreciate that. i can hear it clicking when i give it 12v but i havent pulled it out to see if the plunger is actually moving with 12v.
the engine seems like it catches and tries to fire but won't stay on. seems like it is not getting fuel.

i also noticed that the plunger only gets 11v until the glow plug mechanism finishes its cycle, then it gets the full 12. is this normal?
Click to expand...
This post has a pic of the solenoid I used and part numbers...

If it is clicking it is probably working, but the rubber tip can get stuck and left behind. IMO, it would be pretty coincidental for the solenoid to fail just as you replaced the injectors (but that kind of thing does happen).

It is normal for the GP's to pull the battery down to 10-11V.
 
Like sputnik says. Sounds like you haven't bled the injector lines. Get them all good and loose and also pull up on the line to make sure they are unseated. Crank until fuel spits out allot and tighten. use a rags to prevent it from flying around and into your eyes. May be all you need to do is confirm good connections atop the IP, (or jumper it with 12v from battery) but if need be a fuel cut solenoid can be pinched from a 2003 and under VW diesel.
BTW, it was the 4d55 that was 2.3L. 4d56 is 2.5l displacement. Are you driving the earlier 2.3l iteration? We won't hold it against you if so.
 
after taking a few more cranks with the injector nuts loose, i managed to get it turned over. thanks for the advice on bleeding, i believe i was bleeding too timid with the process.
hah! indeed, i am running a hybrid 4d55 and 4d56t engine. the top half of my engine is the early 4d56t. which makes it easier to find parts and youtube instructionals.
 
Hi all-
I'm going to borrow this thread, as I'm at the same part as gustycrosswinds was when they originally posted.
I pulled the IP on thursday night, it was leaking diesel from the lower back square where the 4 fuel lines connect. There is a large round gasket inside this part of the IP that had failed. In my picture, this gasket is below the twin springs on the back of my makeshift table.

received_2789648107846484.jpg


Putting back together the IP after replacing the gasket was difficult, with lots of little moving parts. I *think* I had gotten it all properly connected... however after redoing the timing belt and cranking for up to 20 seconds multiple times, I am not seeing fuel come out of the 4 fuel lines at the fuel injectors on the engine. (I followed the "Bleeding the fuel lines" forum post already pasted above). We have tried multiple times, and nothing is coming out.

We pulled the fuel line that is closest to the door on the banjo bolt (the clean looking fuel line in my picture, on the left) as I believe that is a fuel return line to the tank ? then tried to crank the engine; fuel flowed out here, which leads me to believe that the fuel pump is working, the engine is properly timed and cranking the IP.

Where did I go wrong? What would you do? do I pull the whole IP out again tomorrow, check my build, then redo a timing belt? would it be better to leave the IP in place and pull the top of it off, in an attempt to service what might be misaligned?

Thanks in advance.
 
chanchito17 said:
Where did I go wrong?
Click to expand...
I'm 99% certain that you did not get the governor connected correctly. That collar that is on the pump shaft (bottom of your pic) is positioned by the governor and controls a relief opening in that shaft. If that opening is uncovered you will get no fuel to the injectors.

You might be able to get it reassembled correctly from the top by removing the governor levers and reinstalling them. But I think you be better off in the long run pulling it and doing it on the bench.

This video explains what's going on in the pump and what I think you didn't get connected correctly.


And this video show how to reassemble it correctly from the back end w/o pulling the governor levers.

 
sk66 said:
You might be able to get it reassembled correctly from the top by removing the governor levers and reinstalling them.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't even try, You would have to remove the two, three sided screws on the sides and try to push the gov pivot against the two small springs.

Best bet is going to be to take it off and open it up.

Did you try turning the pump by hand before putting it on the engine? If not, did you hear any crunching noises from the pump on start up?

There is the possibility that if everything was not lined up or any of the rollers fell, the pump may have been damaged.
 
Well, turns out you were both right... sk66 called it originally; I did not have the governor lined up correctly. I pulled the pump and rebuilt it again. I was certain to get the governor lined up, however as I was tightening down the 4 screws I heard a horrible click. That's unfortunately when Scott became right! I snapped the pump shaft somehow. Haste makes waste!

I found a replacement pump shaft from this Chinese website FridayParts, as well an ebay pump with similar specs of my van (1991). I bought both, not sure if either would work. Both arrived; the FridayParts pump head has a larger diameter pump shaft than my original. My ebay IP was quite seized, the inside had lots of brown buildup on it, and took some work to dismantle it. The good news is that the ebay pump shaft matches my broken pump shaft exactly.

See attached pic: (L->R) Friday parts pump shaft, Ebay pump shaft, obviously my broken pump shaftPXL_20230315_051620677.MP.jpg


So my new question, as I review the videos sk66 sent and rebuild my IP:
Is the FridayParts pump head the size for a post later model 4d56? would rebuilding the back end of the Ebay pump with the Friday parts pump head work as a backup for me? TIA, you folks have saved me a lot of headache already.
 
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The listing on the FridayParts website is for a 10mm head and rotor. That is not what you they sent you. Looks like a 12mm. That is going to be hard to "tune" (calibrate) on the engine. It is going to pump a LOT more fuel. The Chinese parts are also suspect on quality. Use the ebay pump and try that.

The rotor snapped because it was not lined up with the camplate or the return spring guides. Make sure you can push the head almost all the way down by hand before tightening the 4 screws. If it feels like it is hitting something and not just spring tension. It is. Also make sure the metering sleeve is orineted in the right direction. Small bleed hole toward the drive.

If that doesn't work there is always this.

delicapartsusa.com

Delica L300 Injection Pump Kit (4D56T or D4BF) – Good Karrma Delica Parts USA

Is your old injection pump leaking? Are you suffering from a poor idle, misfire at idle, or lack of power on acceleration? It may be time to upgrade your injection system to the late model design. This is a direct fit for those with the late model 4D56T. If you have the a 1989-1993 L300 you'll...
delicapartsusa.com delicapartsusa.com
 
chanchito17 said:
The good news is that the ebay pump shaft matches my broken pump shaft exactly...
Click to expand...

The pump shaft and distributor block are a precision fitted assembly and should be replaced together. Just replacing the shaft will probably work for a while, but don't be surprised if the engine runs strangely (internal leakage messing up fuel delivery and timing) or even seizes.
 
Thanks for letting me know @Growlerbearnz. I had already installed the IP... and I needed my wheels again. We'll see how long it lasts. So far I haven't had any issue, 2 weeks of almost daily driving with one longer weekend trip over the mountain. Plan B is using the old IP sent by @The Tick, I'm rebuilding this one for when the pump shaft and distributor block fail. His was full of sticky brown bits that seized up lots of moving parts. I hope to clean and rebuild with fresh gaskets.
Two videos that really helped me that I thought I'd share for Tuning the fuel Injector Pump post install-


 
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