A/T and Super Select front flashing

ShelbyD said:
If you changed the solenoids then this behaviors suggests a vacuum leak somewhere, or a sticky actuator. They need cleaned and greased and it probably never has been so it might be that or a cracked vacuum hose somewhere. Finally vacuum pump might be weak? Not sure. If you have a vacuum brake bleeder tool then try putting a vacuum on the actuator lines and see if you can reliably get the flashing to be off.
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Hello friend, thank you very much, no, I don't have that tool, what other way can I check if I have a leak? I am going to change all the vacuum hoses that the vehicle has to see if I can detect the fault. Another question I wanted to ask you is, where should I clean and grease the actuator? Sorry but I don't know where it is located, I guess it's in the rubber boot underneath where one of the hoses enters, correct me if I'm wrong
 
Thomascrom said:
Hello friend, thank you very much, no, I don't have that tool, what other way can I check if I have a leak? I am going to change all the vacuum hoses that the vehicle has to see if I can detect the fault. Another question I wanted to ask you is, where should I clean and grease the actuator? Sorry but I don't know where it is located, I guess it's in the rubber boot underneath where one of the hoses enters, correct me if I'm wrong
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The vacuum tools are not too expensive, but you could try applying small pressure to the hoses and spray them with soapy water to look for leaks I guess. Yes the boot on the axle is attached to the actuator. I haven’t needed to grease mine yet so I can’t help much more than that. Good luck.
 
Are you shifting while moving or are you sitting still when shifting between 4hi and 2hi?

The lights on mine flash(front wheels) when I shift between 2h and 4hi, it just sometimes takes a few seconds or even a few tries to engage or disengage the front diff. I don't shift when stopped(which it rarely does for me), roll it a bit, blip the throttle to unload the drivetrain to help the actuator slide.

My kawasaki side by side acts the same way(but it has an electric acuator on the diff), right since new. Sometimes it binds up and I have to pull it off to get it working otherwise it throws a cel after sensing it didn't shift as expected.

Seems like it's just really slow to react. They're old and getting crusy. There's a vacuum pod on the diff iirc that might pull on a rod or cable inside a rubber bellow. Even just shifting it back and forth while while driving might help loosen it up enough. Sure beats firing random parts at it and not fixing anything.
 
andy- said:
Are you shifting while moving or are you sitting still when shifting between 4hi and 2hi?

The lights on mine flash(front wheels) when I shift between 2h and 4hi, it just sometimes takes a few seconds or even a few tries to engage or disengage the front diff. I don't shift when stopped(which it rarely does for me), roll it a bit, blip the throttle to unload the drivetrain to help the actuator slide.

My kawasaki side by side acts the same way(but it has an electric acuator on the diff), right since new. Sometimes it binds up and I have to pull it off to get it working otherwise it throws a cel after sensing it didn't shift as expected.

Seems like it's just really slow to react. They're old and getting crusy. There's a vacuum pod on the diff iirc that might pull on a rod or cable inside a rubber bellow. Even just shifting it back and forth while while driving might help loosen it up enough. Sure beats firing random parts at it and not fixing anything.
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Today in the afternoon I dedicated myself to checking everything very calmly, and I could not find the problem, in the tests I realized that my actuator does not work, I took it out, cleaned it and performed a vacuum test and if it is good, check the I have 3 selenoids and they are all good with a resistance in the voltmeter of 30 ohms. I performed a vacuum test on the lines and they are good except for one that had a leak and I fixed it, I removed the valve that is above the differential where the actuator enters and still Nothing worked like that, I still have the flashing light on the front wheels dashboard and it doesn't make any changes, the 4wd doesn't activate, the selenoids don't emit noises. In conclusion the actuator is not working, I cannot use the 4wd and the light remains the same.

I even changed the oils in the differentials and the transfer box.

I don't know what it could be
 
ShelbyD said:
How are you verifying that 4wd isn’t working
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I haven't really lifted it yet to check if the wheels turn, but I don't feel or hear it engage, nor do I feel that the vehicle has the strength of an off-road vehicle. When I checked, I saw that the front transmission pin was blocked. I can't move it with my hand, I've really been studying and watching forums to see how I can solve it, I want to see if the current reaches the selenoids, I saw a video that a person lifts it at the front and with the lever In 4wd you turn the wheels by hand to see if it unlocks but I don't know.
 
That would be important to see and really verify. I suspect it actually is in front axle locked and isn’t disengaging which is the far more common condition. The actuator or solenoids typically fail in the lock position and don’t unlock. It’s also possibly your wiring is to blame, or the actuator switch.
To clarify, the lights blinking have nothing to do with 4wd, they are simply signaling the front axle disconnect. The 4wd functions are all handled by the transfer case mechanically with the lever.
 
ShelbyD said:
That would be important to see and really verify. I suspect it actually is in front axle locked and isn’t disengaging which is the far more common condition. The actuator or solenoids typically fail in the lock position and don’t unlock. It’s also possibly your wiring is to blame, or the actuator switch.
To clarify, the lights blinking have nothing to do with 4wd, they are simply signaling the front axle disconnect. The 4wd functions are all handled by the transfer case mechanically with the lever.
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If I think the same, when I was under the van and I told my wife with the vehicle on and in N to put it in 4dw and the Low and down the pin did not move, neither by setting it in speed nor by moving it by hand, my question would be how do I do it? to unlock the pin and how I could check the switch, which I don't know where it is either. I already know that vacuum has no leak and the selenoids are good and without leak and the actuator that enters the pin is good, I tested it with vacuum and it moves as it should.
 
If you applied vacuum to the actuator and it moved, then the 4wd light should have stopped blinking at you should have been unlocked. If that is true then it’s vacuum plumbing or vacuum source or electrical wiring. There is a switch on the top of the t case that senses when you put I in 4wd, this is what triggers the vac solenoids to do their thing and move the actuator. So, I would apply vacuum to the system back at the solenoids and see if you can get the actuator to work. Keep moving back from the actuator farther and you’ll eventually finds the problem.
 
ShelbyD said:
If you applied vacuum to the actuator and it moved, then the 4wd light should have stopped blinking at you should have been unlocked. If that is true then it’s vacuum plumbing or vacuum source or electrical wiring. There is a switch on the top of the t case that senses when you put I in 4wd, this is what triggers the vac solenoids to do their thing and move the actuator. So, I would apply vacuum to the system back at the solenoids and see if you can get the actuator to work. Keep moving back from the actuator farther and you’ll eventually finds the problem.
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ShelbyD said:
If you applied vacuum to the actuator and it moved, then the 4wd light should have stopped blinking at you should have been unlocked. If that is true then it’s vacuum plumbing or vacuum source or electrical wiring. There is a switch on the top of the t case that senses when you put I in 4wd, this is what triggers the vac solenoids to do their thing and move the actuator. So, I would apply vacuum to the system back at the solenoids and see if you can get the actuator to work. Keep moving back from the actuator farther and you’ll eventually finds the problem.
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Well, if you apply vacuum to the actuator but disassembled and lower it to check it, and check the hoses and selenoids for leaks and failure, I removed the 2-wire connector that is above the differential and cleaned it but I know that above the transmission there are others that I did not check, but the pin that is with the actuator I do believe is blocked because I could not move it even with my hand on Thursday and Friday I hope to find the fault and solve it.
 
ShelbyD said:
I suspect it’s your rubber hoses leaking still, or the t case switch.
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Well, a line had a leak and it was through the tubes that connect to the hoses, and I put a long hose from the T intake that is on the solenoids to the reserve cylinder that went, another thing that I suspect is that the intakes are not where Well, I want to look for a diagram of the hoses to see where the blue and yellow lines go, the other thing I suspect is something electrical.
 
ShelbyD said:
I suspect it’s your rubber hoses leaking still, or the t case switch.
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Hello friend, updating the information about my failure, after reviewing the entire system I can realize that the valve above the front differential is bad, I took it out and checked the continuity and it doesn't have one, I bought a new OEM one I hope it arrives Let's see if the problem is solved, I also wanted to check the TP sensor and try to adjust it to about .78 v but it is also bad, of the 3 cables only one shows 5.00 v the other 2 show 0.00 v I have intermittent A/T light with flasher code 11, check all connections and no problems. I think I also need to change the TP sensor and I can't find it online
 
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