L300 Oil Cooler removal

greendel

greendel

Active Member
My P25W M/T has been running a bit on the hot side since the D4BF motor was fitted. No doubt the water cooled turbo has added to the load on the cooling system but I'm not sure that the oil cooler was flushed when the motor was fitted. The manual seems to indicate that the bull bar and most of the front panels need to be removed to get to the oilcooler and I wondered if there was an alternative/pragmatic method?

I replaced the radiator and thermostat last year to little gain. (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Row-B...585581?hash=item4b09b7c4ad:g:X34AAOSwvfpcT5vJ)

I'd like to try and improve the situation as we head into summer down here...


delica_temp_gauge.JPG
 
Megerald said:
far out, SA is hot as.

EDIT: Are you measuring the temps across a variety of days or only the hot ones?
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That was a particularly warm day - I think the actual air temperature was in the high 40s but the external thermistor being in the indicator opening picked up a few degrees of road temperature.

With the old 4D56 motor, the water temperature gauge used to be pretty much midrange most of the time summer or winter. Now, even on days in the mid-20s, it will climb up to the top of the normal zone coming up the 4km hill to where I live. It actually went above maximum briefly until I noticed on a 40 degree day last year climbing up to Ballarat from Melbourne. I had to stop for a while until the air temperature dropped. I can slightly mitigate the problem by forcing the aircon fan to come on, so thinking I might make it switchable. It's the only negative thing since swapping the motor over so I'd like to fix the problem.

On my old SE L300, when things got hot I'd resort to opening the windows and venting more heat by putting the heater on! I'd like to avoid doing that again :)
 
Uhm... the oil cooler has oil running through it; not coolant. If you are certain the cooling system is good, you could try going down to a 20-30% antifreeze mix. Straight water would be best for moving heat, but it has a little lower boiling point and it's more likely to cause corrosion.
 
sk66 said:
Uhm... the oil cooler has oil running through it; not coolant. If you are certain the cooling system is good, you could try going down to a 20-30% antifreeze mix. Straight water would be best for moving heat, but it has a little lower boiling point and it's more likely to cause corrosion.
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Thanks. Yes, onto the coolant concentration already, although I've not changed the mix/type from when I had the 4D56 in. Not sure I'd want to run with pure water at this point, as a break though from the coolant gallery in the head is what finally said goodbye to the 4D56. I've not changed the viscous clutch on the fan, but its new(ish) and still seems to be working ok.

Admittedly the SHC of oil is only around 0.5 rather than around 0.8 for coolant, and the volume/radiator is much smaller, but I'd still be happy for small contributions and knowing the oil was actually going through :)
 
By the way, the D4BF has a different thermostat and housing design to the 4D56. There is an o ring type seal rather than the paper gaskets on the original and it's a relative doddle to replace/access. I always carried a spare thermostat on long trips, but dreaded ever having to change it in the back of nowhere.

The local Hyundai dealership were useless when it came to identifying a replacement thermostat (which turned out to be ok when I tested it out of the van, so now I have a spare), but I tracked down an aftermarket alternative for those who've got D4BFs:

Tridon Thermostat TT1404-180​

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greendel said:
By the way, the D4BF has a different thermostat and housing design to the 4D56. There is an o ring type seal rather than the paper gaskets on the original and it's a relative doddle to replace/access. I always carried a spare thermostat on long trips, but dreaded ever having to change it in the back of nowhere.

The local Hyundai dealership were useless when it came to identifying a replacement thermostat (which turned out to be ok when I tested it out of the van, so now I have a spare), but I tracked down an aftermarket alternative for those who've got D4BFs:

Tridon Thermostat TT1404-180​

View attachment 9600
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D4BF has a pajero thermostat in it. oring type... in stock.
 
Megerald said:
can I just say I'm uber jealous of the 3 pod gauge :p
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Looks a bit more 'tired' at the moment - didn't like the corrugations going into Coopers Creek last year. Nicely patched up with gaffer tape at the moment until I can treat it to some tender loving care.
 
greendel said:
Not sure I'd want to run with pure water at this point, as a break though from the coolant gallery in the head is what finally said goodbye to the 4D56.
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You can get just corrosion prevention additives.
greendel said:
but I'd still be happy for small contributions and knowing the oil was actually going through
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If you are just concerned about blockage I think I would just disconnect the lines at the engine and blow through... I'm thinking that would be easier...
 
greendel said:
Perhaps just a difference in year then? My '92 4D56 was definitely different to the D4BF I've got.
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L300 and pajero 2nd gen have different thermostat and water pump format.
D4BF uses pajero style thermostat.
 

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m.h said:
Doubt it as the original turbos are water cooled
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I understood that the Mitsi ones were oil cooled and water cooling was one of the improvements with the Garett turbos on the D4BF. Oh well, either way, still need to get to the bottom of the problem.
 
greendel said:
I understood that the Mitsi ones were oil cooled and water cooling was one of the improvements with the Garett turbos on the D4BF. Oh well, either way, still need to get to the bottom of the problem.
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All the vans ive worked on have had water cooled turbos, but the non intercooled pajeros and l200s only had oil cooled
 
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